Tender or Ripe, you will most likely have some muscovado sugar and self-rising flour on hand. And if you're the kind of person to have purchased those items in the first place, you probably have some butter, eggs, coffee and even a bag of hazelnuts on hand.
Also, can I just take a moment to tell you how much I love these cookbooks? Nigel Slater is a ghee-nee-ous. (I pronounce it with a hard 'g.')
Ghee-nee-ous that he is, he didn't take the option to drizzle his own cake (or so it seems in his photo above) with coffee icing. Obviously, I did. And I don't regret it. The icing wasn't anything miraculous by itself, but it smelled great and allowed me tap into the lost art of drizzling.
In short, this cake is special. You can eat it for dessert or for breakfast. (Or, if you're Matt, for both, on the same day.)
A cake of roasted hazelnuts, muscovado, and coffee super slightly adapted from Nigel Slater's Ripe
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons butter (at room temp)
2/3 cup sugar
1/2 cup packed light muscovado sugar
1 1/3 cups (7 oz) shelled hazelnuts
1/2 cup self-rising flour
for the coffee icing (optional):
2 cups confectioners' sugar
1 to 2 tablespoons espresso
Cut the butter into small pieces and beat together with the two sugars until light and fluffy. Even with a stand mixer, this will take quite a while--you want to end up with a mixture that is smooth and latte colored.
While the sugar and butter are creaming, preheat the oven to 325F and line the bottom of a deep 9-inch cake pan with parchment paper. Tip the nuts into a dry frying pan and toast over medium heat until golden and lightly flecked with brown on all sides. [I wasn't sure whether Nigel meant for the skins of the hazelnuts to be on or off, so I went ahead and rubbed most of them off with a thick dishcloth, which is slightly painstaking, but not that painstaking.]
Grind half of the toasted nuts to a fine powder and the other half rather less so, so they retain a certain nubbly quality, like very fine gravel.
Break the eggs into a small bowl and beat them lightly with a fork. Then, introduce them a little at a time to the creamed butter and sugar, beating thoroughly between each addition. Tip in both batches of ground hazelnuts and mix lightly.
Gently add the flour to the creamed mixture, incorporating it throughly but carefully, then scrape into the lined cake pan using a rubber spatula. Smooth the top gently so that it doesn't peak during cooking. Bake for 45-50 minutes, covering the top lightly with foil for the last ten. Remove from the oven and leave to settle for 15 minutes or so before turning out onto a cooling rack. Gently peel away the paper from the bottom and leave the cake to cool. Mix the confectioners' sugar and coffee together until smooth, then drizzle over the cake and leave for an hour or so to set.