squid ink risotto, the cheese course, and a minor announcement

Dear Readers,
I have a minor announcement to make. Ready? Get set... My culinary point of view has changed.

Did that kind of come out of nowhere? Maybe not? Maybe you've seen it coming? If you think about it, it probably should have changed by now. Now that I've braised previously obscure (to me) meat cuts, layered a dacquoise, and gilded eclairs. Right?

When I first started this blog, I envisioned cake wreck after cake wreck. I assumed that what happened with my Devil's Food Layer Cake with Peppermint Frosting was going to be the norm and pictured Bon Appétempt as the food equivalent of those occasions on Project Runway when real women instead of models pop out into the work room and all of the designers’ faces fall in sadness--my version of the recipe would be that real woman, the size 8+ woman that is so much harder to fit than those headless mannequin busts. And so, my version would call bullshit on those gourmet magazines with their team of trained chefs, food stylists and professional photographers. My version would be destined for failure and not only would that be OK, it would sometimes be hilarious.

But now, a year of attempts later, I must say that I no longer want the same thing...necessarily. (I don't want things not to be hilarious.) Maybe I should put it another way: I no longer necessarily want to call bullshit on the beautiful photography found in food magazines and cookbooks. Because the truth is I've come to love these images and the recipes attached to them. These publications haven't just gotten me to the grocery store and into my kitchen, they've inspired me to appreciate the tasks.

This passage from Thomas Keller's introduction to his French Laundry tome sums up what I think I've learned quite wonderfully:

"Cooking is not about convenience and it's not about shortcuts... Take your time. Take a long time. Move slowly and deliberately and with great attention.

These recipes then, although exact documents of the way food is prepared at the French Laundry, are only guidelines. You're not going to be able to duplicate the dish that I made. You may create something that in composition resembles what I made, but more important--and this is my greatest hope--you're going to create something that you have deep respect and feelings and passions for. And you know what? It's going to be more satisfying than anything I could ever make for you."

Aghhhh. What started as poking fun, as just funnin' in the kitchen, has turned somewhat life-changing and serious. I can't believe it. I've got to go watch some videos on youtube.

With all that finally said, the timing is perfect to share with you a seriously inspired meal I made with my dear dear friend, Mary Anne--of shorty cake and Bûche de Noël fame--while visiting her in Seattle.

John Pawson and Annie Bell's Living and Eating has kind of blown my mind. On the left is their Squid Ink Risotto with Scallops, and on the right is Perail and Endive, found in their section on the cheese course. The architect and food writer, respectively, are all about paring down to the essentials, and while all the recipes aren't exactly simple to me, the book does make a compelling case that cooking and entertaining doesn't have to be so involved or daunting. Plus, the photography includes some of my favorite food images to date.

After I explained all of this to Mary Anne, and she corrected my pronunciation of perail (it's per-ay), we planned our menu.

Arugula with Lemon Dressing and Parmesan

Bread and Baked Garlic

Squid Ink Risotto with Scallops

Perail and Endive

Chocolate Tart

Though where we ended up was a little different...mainly due to the fact that I forgot to bring the squid ink recipe with me on the trip. So after some Googling, we settled on Spicy Squid Ink Risotto, a recipe similarly tempting by Kerry Saretsky for Serious Eats.

If the words squid ink turn you off, just call it Tinta Calamar. Fair? Then if an image of a squid swimming along, extruding its ink comes to mind anyway, try and think of this: classic parmesan risotto and the ocean. That's really what it tasted and smelled like, and thus, it was delicious. The tiny hint of heat from the chili flakes was a perfect addition too.

Despite a trip to one specialty cheese shop and a few calls to various Whole Foods, we couldn't find the super creamy and runny perail anywhere. We substituted Cremeux de Bourgogne, which is like brie but maybe a little richer and definitely a little more tangy, and while neither of us had ever tried perail, we don't think much was missed. But we may have been too excited that we were eating a cheese course to care. 

We had to be flexible when it came to the crust for the dessert too. Digestives were nonexistent at the grocery so we substituted organic graham crackers. Speak of the devil, here's Queen of the Shorty Cake mixing up the graham crackers with butter.

The chocolate tart came to us via Saveur and is a recipe I wholeheartedly recommend. It wasn't that taxing, especially since the crust is the only thing you really bake. The filling just needs to set, and it's one of those perfect desserts that all you need do is pull it out of the refrigerator at the end of the meal (after your cheese course, obviously).

In conclusion: I endorse multi-course meals. Thank you, Mary Anne for all of the help and the crazy delicious fun time!